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After seasons of skinny-nerd ubiquity, the heroic hard bods at Dsquared, Jean Paul Gaultier and Y-3 suggest that the Greeks may soon be beating up on the geeks. If anyone embodied the neo-Hellenism that is muscling its way back into the fashion arena, it was Herb Ritts. More than any other photographer of his generation, Ritts, who died in at the age of 50, redefined masculine glamour with his traditionalist images of modern-day Adonises, whose hypertonic physiques — Apollonian articulation made flesh — he adoringly mythologized. Horst, Ritts was essentially conservative. His most radical legacy is having seduced a heterosexual public with soft-core homoerotica. Although at times he appeared to channel the entire pantheon of fashion photography, Ritts was in fact self-taught.
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